Sardinian Wine Stories

This tasting note is dedicated to Deminera, a distinctive red wine produced by Sa Defenza, one of the pioneers of Sardinia’s emerging low-intervention wine movement.

Deminera is an artisanal red wine made almost entirely from Cannonau, interpreted here through a decidedly natural lens. Its name means “from the mine” in Sardinian, a tribute to the area’s mining past and, in particular, to the now-abandoned S’Ortu Becciu mine, once a source of galena. The wine thus establishes a strong link not only with viticulture, but also with the broader cultural and industrial history of the territory.

As with all Sa Defenza wines, Deminera is produced from grapes grown around Donori, a small town in southern Sardinia, within the Parteolla sub-region. This is a well-established quality area, home to several respected producers such as Argiolas, Pala, Audarya and Altea Illotto. Sa Defenza is a small, family-run estate farming around 12 hectares of vineyards. The name Sa Defenza (“the defence” in Sardinian) encapsulates the estate’s philosophy: a respectful, holistic approach to farming that prioritises natural balance, biodiversity and the production of healthy, genuine and sustainable wines. Vineyards are managed according to synergic agriculture, with no tillage and spontaneous cover crops on poor, granitic-sandy hillside soils. Organic matter from mowing enriches the soil, while biodiversity creates a self-regulating ecosystem closely integrated with the surrounding Mediterranean scrub.

Vineyard and Winemaking

Deminera is produced predominantly from Cannonau (Grenache/Garnacha), with a small addition of Bovale (around 5%) to enhance structure, acidity and tannic grip.

The grapes come from an old vineyard set within a natural granite amphitheatre, surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation. Soils are largely decomposed granite, contributing to freshness and mineral tension. Vines are farmed under synergic principles, with low yields per vine, and grapes are harvested by hand at full phenolic maturity.

In the cellar, fermentation is spontaneous, with a maceration of around 20 days in stainless steel. Ageing also takes place in steel, a deliberate choice aimed at preserving freshness, drinkability and varietal purity. The wine is bottled unfiltered and without the addition of sulphur dioxide, fully embracing the low-intervention ethos of the producer.

Tasting Profile

(Bearing in mind that, as with all low-intervention wines, bottle variation is inevitable)

• Colour: Medium garnet, consistent with Cannonau/Grenache’s naturally oxidative profile, with a slight haziness reflecting the absence of filtration.
• Aroma: Pronounced intensity, with a mildly oxidative and subtly rustic profile. Aromas include redcurrant, red cherry, red plum and pomegranate, followed by pepper, dried Mediterranean herbs, eucalyptus and liquorice. Secondary and tertiary nuances emerge with air: graphite, soy sauce, smoke, stewed red fruit, yeast, game, cured meat, leather and earthy notes.
• Palate: Dry, with high acidity and high, firm, slightly stalky tannins. The elevated acidity and nervy tannic structure balance the wine’s ripe fruit expression and high alcohol (14.5%), resulting in a surprisingly poised and energetic profile. The wine is full-bodied, with pronounced flavour intensity, showing a compelling tension between structure, chewiness and freshness.
• Finish: Long and persistent, with lingering savoury and earthy notes. Tannic astringency and acidity combine to leave a clean, focused and refreshing aftertaste.

Food Pairing, Ageing Potential & Final Thoughts

Deminera is a truly singular expression of Cannonau: rich and ripe, yet marked by freshness, firm tannins and the unmistakable yeasty, savoury nuances typical of low-intervention wines. This is not a wine to rush through; rather, it rewards slow, attentive tasting, sip by sip.

It performs beautifully at cellar to cool room temperature (around 16 °C), but its mildly oxidative profile allows it to be enjoyed even slightly warmer (18–19 °C), though not beyond that.

Thanks to its high acidity and tannic backbone, Deminera could age gracefully for several years, though its current complexity and expressive youthfulness make ageing optional rather than necessary.

In terms of food pairing, its structure and savoury depth make it an excellent match for game dishes, particularly traditional Sardinian preparations such as Pecora alla Nuoresa or pecora al sugo. For vegetarian pairings, its firm tannins and acidity work remarkably well with artichokes, for instance carciofi alla Sassarese.

A wine with a strong sense of place, personality and intent—one that speaks as much of its landscape and philosophy as it does of its grape variety.