This tasting focuses on Russu 2022, a varietal red wine produced from Carignano (Carignan) grapes by U Tabarka, a small estate located in Carloforte, on the island of San Pietro, off the south-western coast of Sardinia, in the Sulcis area.
Sulcis is widely regarded as one of the finest regions in the world for Carignano, and U Tabarka offers a distinctive and authentic interpretation of this grape.
U Tabarka is a small and relatively young estate that embodies the spirit of this remote Mediterranean island. It demonstrates how high-quality winemaking can thrive even in such an isolated environment. Viticulture here is based on a minimal intervention approach, with traditional vineyard practices and generally no irrigation. Sandy soils and constant sea breezes are defining elements of the estate’s identity.
Viticulture & Vinification
Russu is produced from the estate’s best vineyards, including very old Carignano vines—some over 100 years old—grown ungrafted (franco di piede) and trained as bush vines (alberello) on the flat, sandy soils of Carloforte.
These sandy soils prevent the spread of phylloxera, allowing vines to remain ungrafted. This contributes to their longevity and naturally limits yields, resulting in grapes with greater concentration and character.
The proximity to the sea plays a crucial role: cooling maritime breezes mitigate the intense daytime heat, particularly during the evening and night, preserving aromatic freshness. At the same time, the maritime influence contributes to the wine’s saline balance and ageing potential.
Production is limited (around 13,000 bottles in 2022), with very low yields (25 hl/ha), reflecting the estate’s strong focus on quality over quantity.
Harvest is carried out manually. Grapes are then destemmed, gently crushed, and fermented in stainless steel. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks, a deliberate choice to preserve the purity of fruit and highlight the varietal expression.
Tasting Profile
- Colour: Bright, deep ruby—typical of Carignano.
- Nose: Medium(+) intensity, fruit-forward and precise, with aromas of black cherry, ripe black plum, blackberry, red cherry and pomegranate. These are complemented by floral notes (geranium, carnation), black pepper, Mediterranean herbs (thyme), mint, cooked cherry, marmalade and a subtle earthy nuance.
- Palate: Dry, with medium(+) acidity and medium(+) slightly stalky tannins, contributing to a structured yet elegant mouthfeel. The wine is medium(+) bodied, with balanced alcohol (14%) adding warmth and roundness without overwhelming freshness. The texture combines fruit richness with a nervy, mineral edge, while flavour intensity remains medium(+), echoing the aromatic profile with added spice and herbal complexity.
- Finish: Medium(+) to long, with lingering astringency and balsamic notes, alongside a subtle chocolate nuance that enhances overall complexity.
Food Pairing, Ageing Potential and Final Thoughts
Russu is an elegant yet approachable expression of Carignano. While it is clearly fruit-driven and easy to enjoy, it also shows a notable degree of complexity, thanks to careful vineyard management and precise winemaking.
Compared to more powerful and structured examples from Sulcis, this is a lighter and more accessible style, yet it retains depth, aromatic persistence and balance. Achieving such freshness and fruit precision in a warm Mediterranean climate is particularly noteworthy, and can be attributed to the sandy soils, ungrafted vines, and strong maritime influence.
This wine highlights once again the versatility of Carignano, a grape capable of combining concentration with elegance.
Russu has a moderate ageing potential (5+ years), during which it may develop additional complexity and more savoury nuances. It is best served at around 16–18°C, or slightly cooler when young to enhance its freshness.
Food Pairing
- Young: excellent with Sardinian charcuterie
- With some age: pairs well with roasted meats (sausages, lamb ribs)
- More adventurous pairing: fresh tuna dishes, such as spaghetti alla carlofortina (tuna and pistachios) or even tuna tataki
Sardinian Wine Stories 
Leave a comment